Kites and wings rarely die on the water. Far more often, they're finished off by what happens between sessions: sun, salt, sand, and a damp bag. Here are the habits that take ten minutes and add several seasons to your gear.
After the session: sun, sand, and flutter
Don't leave an inflated kite lying on the beach for hours. UV ages the fabric, and a canopy flapping in the wind wears out faster than it does in flight. Once you're off the water, deflate it — or at least move it into the shade and weigh it down with sand. Shake the sand off before folding: trapped in the folds, it works like sandpaper. Rinse the bar with fresh water, especially the release mechanism: salt and sand in there are the worst thing that can happen to your safety system.
Drying
The main rule: only put it away for storage dry. Fresh water and rain are no problem as long as the kite dries afterward. The problem is a wet kite that sat in its bag for a week: you get mildew, smell, and dye that can bleed from dark panels onto light ones. If you had to pack it wet, unroll it at home and let it finish drying in the shade, somewhere with airflow. Not on a radiator and not in direct sun.
How to fold
Deflate everything completely, roll the kite from the wingtips toward the center, pushing the air out, and fold it in two or three without forcing it. Don't cram it into the bag: a tight crease in the same spot every time eventually breaks down the fabric and the bladder. Close the valves so sand can't get inside. The same goes for a wing, plus one more thing: don't crease the clear windows, if it has them — a fold there stays forever. On strutless kites like the UFO V3, the leading edge is the only rigid part, so it matters even more not to bend it sharply.
Winter storage
Before winter, rinse the kite with fresh water, dry it completely, and look it over. Store it somewhere dry and cool, away from sunlight and temperature swings — a closet at home beats a damp garage or a balcony. Don't stack anything heavy on top, and don't cinch the bag straps tight. If it lives in a garage or a shed, think about mice: they happily chew through fabric and bags. Keep the bar alongside it, with the lines wound neatly and free of knots.
Small repairs you can do yourself
A small cut or puncture in the canopy can be closed with self-adhesive repair tape. The surface has to be clean and dry, and the patch should extend a couple of centimeters past the edge of the damage, with rounded corners so it doesn't peel. It's best to tape both sides. A bladder puncture is found by the bubbles underwater and sealed with a bladder patch.
But tears near seams, damage to the leading edge, opened seams, and anything longer than a few centimeters are better left to a repair shop: under load, the kite will tear further in exactly that spot. After any repair, pump the kite up and leave it overnight — it should be just as firm in the morning.
Checking lines and bar
Once a season — and always before your first session — unwind the lines completely. Attach all four ends to a single point and pull the bar tight: the lines should be the same length. Over time they stretch unevenly, and the kite starts flying crooked. Look along the full length of each line: abrasion, fuzzy sections, and knots are all reasons to replace it. A stray knot noticeably weakens a line, so undo them right away.
Next, the bar: the depower line where it runs through the bar, the chicken loop, the leash, and the release itself. It should fire easily and reassemble just as easily. If the wear is already serious, don't cut corners on safety — take a look at a new Sentry V3 Bar. On a wing, check the leash, the handles, and the valves.
Not sure it's safe to ride?
Send us a photo of the damage or give us a call — we'll tell you whether a patch will do or it's time for a proper repair.